This season, Flair Fashion returns to London Fashion Week with UNFOLD Collective uniting seven designers, each bringing a distinct point of view and story to the stage. Together, they explore varied approaches to silhouette, fabrication and construction, treating femininity not as a fixed idea, but as something plural; continually challenged and redefined.

Across the collective, no singular form of femininity dominates, but instead, a range of perspectives, backgrounds and identities weave together into one showcase. UNFOLD is a space where these different stories of what it means to be a woman today can sit side by side, in conversation rather than agreement.

The brand’s philosophy – adapted from a Chinese proverb –  is “The greater retreat lies not in the forest, but in the city.”

The SS27 collection titled ‚Diana’s Bath‘ draws its inspiration from the Bagno di Diana within Rome’s Palazzo Doria Pamphilj,  an ethereal private bathroom commissioned by Prince Filippo Andrea Doria Pamphilj for his English bride. Steeped in the romance of the frescoed chamber, the collection translates the painted women of the Bagno di Diana into silk chiffon, displaying delicate draping and floating silhouettes. The bath’s signature blue reflections reappear as aquatic tones and fluid satin, tracing the movement of light across water. As day gives way to night, the nude-toned satin and delicate sequins suggest luminous skin beneath the water’s surface, with shimmering details echoing droplets left behind after bathing.

From fresco to water, from water to skin.

 

Juliene is a womenswear brand founded by mother-and-daughter duo Luljeta and Ylberine Lushtaku, bringing two generations of creativity together. Blending craftsmanship with a contemporary artistic perspective, the brand creates refined, expressive pieces that bridge heritage and innovation.

‘20,000 Stories, One Memory’ unfolds across six looks, exploring silence, restraint, burden, remembrance and presence. Concealed forms, chains, tulle, silk, rubberised lycra and crystal fragments express these themes through contrasting textures and structures, moving from concealment towards visibility and renewal.

The collection responds to the conflict-related sexual violence endured by women and girls during the 1998–1999 Kosovo War. While an estimated 20,000 survivors are recognised in Kosovo’s public memory, the true number remains unknown. Rather than recreating the violence, Juliene gives form to its lasting impact, reflecting collective memory, dignity and identity beyond suffering.

Inspired by the forced migration of the people of Kosovo during the war, ‘Regrounded’ explores displacement, migration, and the emotional connection to home. Across six looks, the collection follows a journey from separation to reconnection, with symbolism carrying the weight throughout. Luggage, old letters, keys, stamps, torn fabrics, and footprints speak to memory and movement, while „roots“ represent the ties that remain to the homeland even after forced departure. Ultimately, Regrounded is about finding your way back; to your roots, identity, and the place you call home.

NESSE’S AURE is a couture brand creating strong, feminine, and expressive pieces for the modern woman. The brand explores the relationship between structure and the female silhouette, with corsetry and waist definition as central elements.

‘Unseen Heritage’ traces a journey from the cobblestone streets of Albania to the rain-soaked streets of London, connecting past and present generations. By reinterpreting traditional details through a modern lens, the collection treats heritage as a living foundation rather than a fixed inheritance, extracting fragments of cultural memory to be questioned, carried, and transformed. At its heart is Oya, a delicate handmade craft passed down through generations. Its intricacy is set against leather, metal, eyelets, sculpted corsetry and elongated fringes. Softness against structure, delicacy against strength.

HAYAL Couture is a contemporary couture house built on craftsmanship and a distinctive approach to contemporary femininity. The name, meaning „dream,“ reflects the house’s philosophy: every creation begins as an idea, an imagining of form and possibility, before being shaped into something tangible through craftsmanship.

Blending heritage techniques with modern design, SSLB creates distinctive, hand-embroidered accessories. Dedicated to preserving the art of embroidery, SSLB offer refined pieces that allow wearers to express their individuality through skilled craftsmanship.

This season extends SSLB’s exploration of Nature & Creatures from February, a total of nine looks shift focus from individual forms to the passage of time, transformation, and nature’s quiet rhythms. The collection follows the lotus from full summer bloom to its fading, sculptural form in autumn, embracing every stage of existence from blooming, transforming, fading, to becoming anew. The graceful Chinese style of feitian embroidery captures movement, freedom, and ethereal beauty. It culminates in the peacock, a symbol of beauty and good fortune, bringing together vitality and splendour in one final, radiant expression. Nature, throughout, is never still.

Inspired by Japanese graphic artist Hidetoshi Mito, the Interbloom series carries a subtle, oriental charm. Each look is constructed like a brushstroke across textured washi paper. Silhouettes stay quiet and considered, while feather-trimmed lapels, crochet flower fringes, and delicate fabrication carry the collection’s painterly softness through to the body. It perfectly merges traditional Chinese motifs with Mito’s painting style into something distinctively modern and wearable.

Founded by Chinese designers Leah Fu and Pan, For Poem means „poetry“ or „beautiful things.“ For the duo, clothing is more than coverage; it’s an expression of attitude, designed for the modern, independent woman through minimalist silhouettes and considered detail.

GG CHENN is a London-based womenswear label founded in 2026 by designer Gigi Chen, creating ready-to-wear and atelier pieces through an intuitive dialogue between material, construction and the body. At its core is Formation, an ongoing exploration of identity, inheritance, memory and ritual, expressed through tactile layers, sculptural volumes and considered silhouettes.

Gigi Chen’s debut collection, Embodied Memory, explores femininity as an inheritance passed from grandmother to mother to daughter. Drawing on her experience of growing up between countries, the collection examines how womanhood is shaped by generational expectations of duty, care and deference. Sheer layers and rigid metal frames inspired by her grandmother’s jewellery create a dialogue between softness and strength, carrying traces of memory through each garment.

Photography: @rosslynphotography