Masha Popova presents her hotly-anticipated debut runway show – a high-intensity body of work titled RUSH. Subverting some of the colourful, optimistic details which have defined previous collections, the Ukrainian-born designer is, instead, focused on darker notions. Popova has been inspired by moments of fast-paced, all-encompassing energy; her imagined muse driving rapidly at night to forget the woes of the world.

The Spring/Summer 2023 collection is anchored by the label’s signature appliqué and off-kilter approach to denim separates. An energetic spirit moves throughout the garments: trippy oil spill-inspired graphics, and tyre marks – reminiscent of the effects of a car drifting – are reverse-printed onto jersey T-shirts to mimic an embossed finish.

Hero denim pieces include intricately draped jackets equipped with power shoulders, star and slash-adorned flared jeans with cut-out details at the hip, and platform knee-high boots covered in creased blue jeans. The line-up is finished off with a variety of voluminous designs that feature low-rise denim maxi skirts with eye-catching fishtail accents in the back.

For her jewellery, Popova joined forces with Anabelle Lacuna of Lacuna Jewellery, whom the designer met while interning at Maison Margiela. Working with Paris-based artisans, the designs feature classic ‘headlight’ colours on grandiose crystals with chrome and gold outlines, reminiscent of the seductive curves of a race track.

Popova, a graduate of Central Saint Martins, deals in escapism. The designer – who’s dressed the likes of Dua Lipa, Billie Eilish and Bella Hadid – delves into her early recollections of growing up in a suburban post-soviet town. Popova demonstrates a unique talent for fusing the raw energy of the Noughties with a new powerful, liberated aesthetic for a generation finding comfort in playful subversion

CREATIVE DIRECTION & DESIGN

MASHA POPOVA

STYLING CELESTINE

COONEY

CASTING HOLLY

CULLEN

WORDS

ALEX KESSLER

COMMUNICATIONS

RAVEN

MAKE-UP

LYNSKII

HAIR MARI

OHASHI

NAILS

ANH HOANG

MUSIC

IVO PACHECO