This fragment, attributed to Heraclitus of Ephesus, who, in his susceptibility to melancholia went on to bear the title “the weeping philosopher”, shall serve as a premise for our brief, but collective sojourn. Within the unexplored waters of change, it is impossible for any human to step into the same waters twice, as Heraclitus enlightens us:

“Πάντα ῥεῖ” (Everything always flows).
Nevertheless, humans wary of change and the unknown continue to resist Heraclitus’s teachings.
Dynamics begin to form:
Sea contra land, flow contra rigidity, myth contra realism, relieving amorphousness contra constricting framework, otherness contra conformity.
How can these differences be reconciled?
The ancient Greeks had an intricate relationship with the ever-changing sea. While a resource, a spring of power, the sea’s otherness, its ever-changing unpredictable nature, brute force and indomitable will were
feared. At their core many stories within Greek mythology are about interpersonal conflict. The solution is often a form of metamorphosis. Liminal beings, bestowed with the power of transition or change act as bearers of
resolution. Unlike humans, their very essence allows them to shift through contrasting realms: the mortal and the divine. Land and sea.
Proteus (Πρωτεύς), a liminal being that not only dwells in but also embodies rivers and oceanic bodies of water exemplifies this. When revealed to the human eye, Proteus takes on the “Old man of the Sea” form, when concealed he enjoys the epithet of (God of) “elusive sea change.” And while he bears the gift of prophecy, in his reluctance to share it with humanity, Proteus shapeshifts. Proteus will only enlighten those seeking to know the only constant (which is change) if they are able to catch him mid-metamorphosis
His capabilities endure in the English language. We still use the word “protean” to describe the ability to change intermittently and effortlessly. Much like fashion. Perhaps, the only way to peacefully coexist with change is to be protean ourselves. Perhaps, we will capture Proteus on our sojourn today.

Central London 15th September 2022. Edward Crutchley presents his Spring Summer 2023 designs as part of London Fashion Week.©Maja Smiejkowska

RUN OF SHOW

Look one
Multi frill mini gown made in a silk and aluminium cloqué jacquard*
Holographic platform triple strap sandal made by ROKER
*All of the textiles developed exclusively for the collection are new interpretations on cloqué: a double fabric with a jacquard effect rich in
couture sensibility. In some, aluminium has been woven to create a crinkle in others, lurex offers iridescence.

Look two
Four-button high-break half-lined jacket made in fully traceable RWS certified wool and mohair*
Cargo mini skirt made in fully traceable WRS certified wool and mohair
Dropped waist button up skirt made in silk and aluminium cloqué jacquard
Holographic platform triple strap sandal
*The Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) is a voluntary benchmark that is working to ensure a strong chain of custody for
certified materials as they move through the supply chain.

Look three
Lightly padded midi liner coat made in silk and aluminium cloqué jacquard*
Silk and aluminium cloqué jacquard scarf tied as belt
Holographic platform triple strap sandal
*Archetypal couture shapes and opulent textile are amplified. When splayed, these clothes resemble flora and fauna. Flowers in bloom, jelly
fish in motion, aquatic vegetation aflutter.

Look four
Oversized skater shirt in silk and aluminium cloqué jacquard
Flared button up skirt in fully traceable RWS certified wool and mohair
Holographic platform triple strap sandal

Look five
Sleeveless mac with exaggerated back yoke and epaulettes in silk and aluminium cloqué jacquard
Tapered deep pleat elasticated cargo pant in recycled polyester in A.I. inspired abalone print
Holographic platform triple strap sandal

Look six
Cropped sheath top covered in crystal polyester ribbons
High cut briefs in recycled crepe jersey
Dropped waist button up skirt in silk habotai, hand dipped to give the effect of rippled water
Holographic platform triple strap sandal

Look seven
Multi pocket zip front bomber in water effect nylon made using a faceted yarn to refract light
High crop bra top made in recycled crepe jersey
Midi length sheath skirt covered in crystal polyester ribbons
Holographic platform triple strap sandal

Look eight
Body con power mesh midi dress encrusted with aurora borealis and holographic sequin waves, hand
embroidered pleats and bead encrustations
Holographic platform triple strap sandal

Look nine
Frill sleeve mini dress made in water effect nylon made using a faceted yarn to refract light
Holographic platform triple strap sandal

Look ten
Power mesh vest encrusted with aurora borealis, holographic sequin waves and hand embroidered pleat
and bead encrustations
Maxi length mac with exaggerated back yoke and epaulettes in water effect nylon made using a faceted
yarn to refract light
Holographic platform triple strap sandal

Look eleven
Lightly padded maxi liner coat in water effect nylon made using a faceted yarn to refract light*
Water effect nylon scarf worn as belt
Holographic platform triple strap sandal
*For the last two seasons Crutchley has been gently expanding on a vocabulary of queer glamour. An unapologetic opulence reverberates in
his clothes. Here he has taken extravagance – and maximised it. The dial was at 7 and now it is at 9.

Look twelve
Jewel and sequin encrusted cupless bra
Tapered deep pleat cargo pants in water effect nylon made using a faceted yarn to refract light
WE WILL RETURN/I WILL BE BACK t-shirt tucked into back of pants
Holographic platform triple strap sandal

Look thirteen
Lightly padded midi liner coat made in recycled polyester in A.I. inspired abalone print
Recycled polyester A.I. abalone print scarf worn as belt
Holographic platform triple strap sandal

Look fourteen
Multi yarn bodycon top with dropped stitch hole details
Multi yarn bodycon skirt with dropped stitch hole details
Holographic platform triple strap sandal

Look fifteen
Alpaca abstract aurora jacquard knit beanie
Multi pocket trekking shirt with exaggerated floating back yoke in an organic silk printed with an abstract
aurora design
Alpaca crop top in an abstract aurora jacquard knit
High cut briefs made in recycled crepe jersey
Cargo miniskirt made in fully traceable RWS certified wool and mohair
Holographic platform triple strap sandal

Look sixteen
Alpaca abstract aurora jacquard knit beanie
Bodycon power mesh mini dress encrusted with aurora borealis, holographic sequin waves and hand
embroidered pleat and bead encrustations
Alpaca oversized cardigan in an abstract aurora jacquard knit
Holographic platform triple strap sandal

Look seventeen
Oversized alpaca sleeveless cardigan in abstract aurora jacquard knit
Holographic platform triple strap sandal

Look eighteen
Multi yarn bodycon dress with dropped stitch hole details*
Holographic platform triple strap sandal
*Abstract layered and rich but with plenty of skin – chthonic sea goddess stood
on dry, hot, salt-encrusted rocks – she dives into the ocean going – deeper, deeper.

Look nineteen
Midi length sheath dress covered in crystal polyester ribbons
Holographic platform triple strap sandal

Look twenty
Jewel and sequin encrusted cupless bra
Jewel and sequin encrusted low rise brief
Holographic platform triple strap sandal

Look twenty-one
Lightly padded maxi liner coat in colour shifting lurex faced cloqué jacquard
Colour shifting lurex faced cloqué jacquard scarf worn as belt
Holographic platform triple strap sandal

Look twenty-two
Puff sleeve minidress in colour shifting lurex and silk tubic cloqué jacquard*
Holographic platform triple strap sandal