A style cut from the cloth of couture, a back-and-forth between the strange and the normal, a silhouette always on the edge. Véronique Leroy does away with all forms of pretense. Since the beginning, the designer has muddled clichés, mixed the pedestrian and the glamorous, reality and fiction. Her heroines are characters from the films of Akerman, Chabrol or Haneke, artfully layered in her designs. The conqueror and the maiden are blended, blurred together.

For Véronique Leroy, the film format was what decided her to make her return to the official Paris schedule after an absence of several seasons. Fed up with the runway, she had decided to present off-calendar for the past couple of years, she explained via Zoom. “The fact of filming the clothes allows us to breathe life into them,” she said. In her video, she referenced the uncertainty many have been feeling in recent months, her model wavering in a windswept meadow as if buffeted by the elements.

The look: A play on proportions and textures. Sharp ’80s shoulders, “ladylike” fluid silk button-fronted skirts and exaggerated tie-neck blouses and men’s wear check pants mingled with jogging pants in soft, yet chunky fabrics and outsized quilted coats and bomber jackets. The sheen on certain materials gave them a technical feel, an interesting contrast with the pale and neutral color palette.

Standout pieces: A lilac quilted, hooded bomber jacket; a marbled tie-dye button-front skirt and trenchcoat in off-white and brown.

Der Look: Ein Spiel mit Proportionen und Texturen. Scharfe 80er-Jahre-Schultern, „ladylike“ Röcke mit flüssiger Seidenknopffront und übertriebene Krawattenblusen sowie Karohosen für Herrenmode, gemischt mit Jogginghosen aus weichen, aber klobigen Stoffen und übergroßen Steppmänteln und Bomberjacken. Der Glanz bestimmter Materialien gab ihnen ein technisches Gefühl, einen interessanten Kontrast zur blassen und neutralen Farbpalette.

Eine lila gesteppte Bomberjacke mit Kapuze; ein marmorierter Rock mit Knopfleiste und Trenchcoat in Cremeweiß und Braun.

PHOTOS & VIDEO – Laetitia Hotte