The collection draws direct influence from Roksanda’s own personal heritage. Monasteries Gračanica, Studenica and Žiča, their fresco paintings and connection with otherworldly purity inform the fragile and delicate pieces. Traditional robes adorned with gold handwoven threads are transported into a modern version of fill coupe and printed lamina resonating with the tactility and delicacy of this intimate collection.
Encapsulating the depth of femininity versus masculinity, the brand’s renowned powerful tailoring is elevated through a transformative process. Structured jackets and pencil skirts, crafted in an Argenta wool-silk melange, reflect the brutalist dimensions. Artisanal screen printing, unique to itself, displays fractions of blank space amongst painterly swathes of fresh pinks, lemon and lamina in hues of verts, allowing moments of spontaneity and fluidity within strict silhouettes.
An unexpected union of texture can be found in glossy panelling, paired with both a technical nylon in noir and melange wools in ecru and blush pink. These panels highlight a study of what imperceivable embodiment is carried beneath. Ever present through sheer textures, exposing elements of female anatomy in unassuming places, revealing softness through precision.
Elsewhere, an unexpected marriage of texture is embodied through a foray into ‘crushed’ hand-pleating. Languid silk blends and recycled taffeta, have been artfully cut and draped to trace gentle yet bold silhouettes. Boning takes form to propel pleats into abstract curves that ebb and flow to their own rhythm, annexed from the body.
Transformative, yet intimate movements are given life through circular metal sculptures. Metals intertwined amongst elderflower and pewter satin capture the raw life spiralling throughout the concrete structures in which this collection presents itself. Hand-crafted marbling, layered onto delicate silk twill forms the interactions of ultra-feminine formations. Ever continuing in the form of an acid yellow fil-coupe and a textured jacquard in tones of chamois and water-chestnut.
Outwear continues to be powerful and structural, a constant play on utilitarian versus couture which brings a sharp masculine element of art. Signature bags are celebrated through careful construction and consideration, hand-crafted within the ROKSANDA studio. Signature colours and accessories are repurposed and reconstructed in alliance with the classic elegance of Manolo Blahnik.
Amaryllis, Argenta, Blush-Pink, Chamois, Dusty-Orange, Ecru, Elderflower, Fluorescent Pink, Himmelle, Lapis-Blue, Light-Mauve, Limon, Miel, Mauve, Noir, Tangerine, Turquesa, Pêche, Perruche, Pewter, Rose-Clair, Water-Chestnut, Wisteria.
Sand-washed Silk Satin, Silk-Wool Melange, Silk Twill, Fil-Coupé, Georgette, Textured Jacquard, Transparen Mtixed-Fibre Panelling, Recycled Wool, Naia Crepe, Recycled Taffeta, Cotton-Blends, Textured Nylon.
Photos: Honor Gell