Deciphering where one garment begins and another ends does not typically take a detective’s eye. A sweatshirt cuff poking out from a trenchcoat sleeve, for example, would reasonably imply two pieces layered to counter a wintry chill.

For AW23, however, MM6 Maison Margiela confounds the assumptions projected onto the most familiar of garments, presenting a series of entirely new contexts in which they might be viewed and worn.

A play of surfaces and perception, looks are constructed with the same methodology as a cadavre exquis. Unexpected fabric textures and treatments are irreverently spliced, disrupting preconceived associations of particular garments, textiles and silhouettes. Elsewhere, improbable styling choices are achieved through deceptive construction methods. A leather gilet opens to reveal the plackets of a padded hiking vest and a tailored waistcoat, while a bisected wool coat is a composition of two pieces.

Shoes and accessories are also refracted through this season’s hall of mirrors. Bulky-footed thigh-high boots are crafted from panelled brushed calfskin and distressed suede, featuring 7cm flatforms to create a subtle illusion of height. Reiterating the collection’s interpretation of modular aesthetics, the iconic Japanese Bag returns as a triple-handled iteration and as a full-size Weekender.

For all the talk of aesthetic artifice, this is far from a collection thats out to trick you. As you’ll see here in the show, with its exposed backstage, how these puzzle pieces come together to create a whole is plainly on view. Afterwards, however, when these clothes enter your wardrobes, it’s down to you to replicate that logic to create puzzles that make sense to you.

For all the talk of aesthetic artifice, this is far from a collection thats out to trick you. As you’ll see here in the show, with its exposed backstage, how these puzzle pieces come together to create a whole is plainly on view. Afterwards, however, when these clothes enter your wardrobes, it’s down to you to replicate that logic to create puzzles that make sense to you.