A life without the feeling of loneliness that comes with isolation, but with the essential moments of solitude we need in order to reconnect with ourselves.
To express her ideas, this season Serre delves even deeper into the medium of film and all its radical storytelling possibilities with Ostal24. Continuing her partnership with trusted collaborators Sacha Barbin and Ryan Doubiago, which began with Amor Fati (SS21), the 13-minute short transports us through interior and exterior worlds that could be situated somewhere in the past,
present or future.
Ostal24 seeks to create a distinction between isolation and solitude. While we may welcome a life with fewer restrictions, it’s easy to slip into old habits and not make time for the people we love and our inner self. On the road ahead, Serre sees an optimistic, alternative way of being; of creating awareness around personal space; what we are putting into our bodies; how we move and take ownership of ourselves; the value of materials and skills; the importance of acts of tenderness and kindness. And to be more attuned to the impact our everyday actions have on the planet and those around us.
The title Ostal24, which means maison or house in Occitan – a historical language spoken in Serre’s native region – grew from her belief that through sincere engagement with our primal instincts, we can create a sense of home wherever life takes us. Composed of 45% recycled and 45% regenerated materials, SS22 is Serre’s most sustainable collection yet. Multicolored terry torchon – an unextraordinary fabric usually reserved for household chores – becomes extraordinary after being regenerated into boots, boxy jackets, skirts and tops. Other homely fabrics such as Dutch embroidered tablecloths and linen tea towels are imbued
with luxury in their new life as lab coats.
The pointelle knitwear is a new material in Serre’s vocabulary this season, as is the regenerated popcorn fabric, which comes in an array of sunny prints and is fashioned into tops and dresses synonymous with the 1990s. Scans of the vintage fabrics used throughout the collection have been collaged together to create an original melange print emblazoned across catsuits, leggings, liquid-drape dresses, and track pants – garments that optimise movement and agility.
Alongside these recent fabrications there are threads of continuity from past seasons that have been developed and refined. Tradition and technology meet in the moiré textiles, which are handmade in France using recycled fibres and are now emblematic of the brand. Dresses cut from upcycled silk scarves and t-shirts; the iconic Marine Serre second skin boots and garments featuring the moon print; shamanic jewellery crafted from regenerated cutlery, glass and stones, and leather and denim wear – painstakingly patchworked together from existing end-of-life garments – all remain touchstones for SS22. By returning to these fabrics and
honing the techniques used to make them, Serre is maturing and sharpening the identity of her brand.
“The most important thing for me is what people feel when they see Ostal24 rather than what they think,” Serre says. “I want people to feel the beauty and the simplicity of being together and finding joy in cooking, eating, dancing, yoga. And at the same time recognise that everyday we make choices that have an impact, so how can we be more responsible in the decisions we make?
Fashion is about more than draping fabric and making a profit, it can be a place where we are free to take meaningful action.”