On|Off is an innovative talent support platform established in 2002 by Lee Lapthorne. The programme nurtures UK and International emerging designers showcasing their collections on the catwalk at London Fashion Week.
The initiative provides guidance and counsel leading up to and post show building a foundation for future careers. Designers are offered business support and mentoring, introduced to key industry experts, help in business set up, access to production and manufacturing contacts, marketing and brand image advice along with links to business professionals and mentors. The platform also offers independent international showcasing opportunities for sales.
Now in its 17th year, On|Off has showcased many of the most exciting UK and International designers including JW Anderson, Louise Gray, Gareth Pugh, Peter Pilotto, Bernhard Willhelm, Osman, Christopher Raeburn and Roksanda IIincic to name a few.
JimmyPaul x Hello Kitty London Fashion Week Debut
Sanrio is excited to announce a collaboration with Amsterdam-based designer JimmyPaul for his SS20 collection, in partnership with lifestyle licensing company DIFUZED. The collection is a celebration of Hello Kitty’s legacy and 45th anniversary.
JimmyPaul’s decision to partner with Hello Kitty stems from his fascination with pop culture. Since 2010 he has developed a unique approach to fashion, resulting in ‘high-fructose’ avant-garde silhouettes and bold designs that channel an innocent vision of the design world and portrays an optimistic and playful aesthetic that is associated with pop culture icons, such as Hello Kitty.
The collection includes bold, playful features that draw inspiration from Hello Kitty’s iconic looks – such as her symbolic bow. These are married with design elements from “Kitsugi”: the art of repairing ceramics and “Furoshiki”: the art of present wrapping – a love letter from JimmyPaul to Japan and its rich, cultural heritage. The combination of the two result in a charming, humorous collection that channels cheerfulness and positivity. The ready-to-wear collection will be available to buy exclusively at jimmypauldifuzed.com
DANIEL PASCAL TANNER
In collaboration with Liberty London
Spring Summer 2020 pinpoints the sense of escapism that sits at the core of Daniel P Tanner’s work. His interest in historical fashion as a way of personal escapism was the inspiration behind this collection. The idea of escaping the mundane and pressure of daily living and allowing what we wear to be a part of playful retreat and letting go. Much like a hermitage to a place of contentment and contemplation. Daniel P tanner references a playful period during the 18th Century when artists, philosohers and physician idealised rural lifestyles as a way of purging the body and soul of city living, excess and the extravagant life at court. The movement was known as the ‘Back to Nature’ craze. However, the craze resulted in a conspicuous exhibition of appropriating the fashions of rural lives and adorning it with luxury to make it more genteel. While these stories derive from a time of inequality we reference this time in the context of today’s society where the need to escape from our hectic lives is still prevalent, but who doesn’t enjoy a little luxury from time to time!
Daniel Pascal Tanner will be hosting one-to-one appointments to view the collection
Yan Dengyu’s conceptual collection is inspired by the human figure and his desire of colour. The black bodysuit is the foundation of Yan’s Spring Summer 20 collection covering the body from head to toe. Organza and leather are wrapped pleated and draped on the body to create exaggerated silhouettes and a collection of unique one-off pieces.
Rose Danford-Phillips’ collection ‘Kiss of the Earth’ is inspired by the wild, sublime energy of nature in Spring and Summer. Among the artistic inspirations of this collection are Stravinsky’s ‘The Rite of Spring’, Hilma af Klint’s ‘The 10 Largest’, Rachel Ruysch (the female 17th century Dutch Flowers painter), and Circe by Madeline Miller – all of which inspired Rose to examine the spiritual and emotional aspects of nature, and their connection to women.
Too often in design, the raw power of nature is neutralised. With florals, the true sexual nature and function of flowers which manifest in brilliant colour and astonishing form are reduced to pretty flower motifs and dainty florals, all wild power sanitised. This sanitisation is an example of modernism’s systematic extermination of the meaning and function of ornament, which it denigrates as a sign of the feminine and exotic, leaving a hollow shell emptied of meaning.
Inspired by these emotional aspects of nature, Rose seeks a return to meaningful ornament and decoration in her clothes. Vivid prints are the foundation of the collection – psychedelic poppies, melted peonies and nymphs nestled in foliage merge with abstract brushstrokes on silk and cotton. Feathers abound – clouds of ostrich feathers float in the breeze, goose feathers unfurl into abstract blossoms and coque feathers bounce like fountain grass. Jewellery pieces juxtapose the lightness of feathers with the swaying weight of chain, and laurels of painted shells (made by Rose’s father) signify the victorious feminine.
“Decorating is not a surface performance, it’s a spiritual impulse, inborn and primordial.“
Rose Danford-Phillips sales at the LONDON show ROOM x Tranoï Fashion Week at 22 Rue de la Roquette, 75001, Paris. Showroom dates: 25th September – 1st October 2019
Colin Horgan presents a woman of today faced with post-human obstacles for Spring Summer 2020. Textiles are re-worked against strong reinforces silhouettes of obelisk grey, mercury silver, iridescent evergreen and luminescent blue. Fabrics repel away from the body as progress happens through movement, with fringe hand applied for a neo-couture effect in opposing saddle stitching. Utilitarian pockets have been added in both functional and aesthetic ways of how this woman is limitless in discovery. Juxtaposing fabrics is also achieved in hardwear by introducing Colin’s SS20 signature Buzzaw earrings and zippers. Loyal to his woman in mind, soft and delicate but sharp edged and accurate. The collection was entirely produced and nurtured by local talent within Kerry, Ireland and has been approached with a substainable output to reduce carbon emissions.
Irish born Horgan graduated from the MA Fashion Womenswear programme at The Royal College of Art in 2017 where he closed the show with his visually stimulating collection ‘Brisk’. Horgan takes inspiration from strength in women in his family and juxtaposes them with surreal women that inspired him through his early youth stages.