Returning to the historical salons of the Directoire-style Hotel Bourrienne, Olivier Theyskens muses on party girls throughout the ages for Spring Summer 2020. From the 18th century Merveilleuses – who danced within these very walls – to the contemporary Theyskens girl, the collection rejoices in a call-and-repeat of sensuous shadow play laced with the hand of the atelier. Approaching deconstruction with abandon, the silhouette is both dictated and adorned by Theyskens’ touch as a consummate dressmaker.
In signature black and ballet nudes interjected with scarlet, pale pink and lavender, the collection examines tailoring and eveningwear separates from the inside out. The elements of a column skirt suit are peeled back to reveal meticulous structure: raw cut hems, hook-and-eye closures and ribbon piping are exposed as precise darts build volumes in taffeta, organza and summer wool.
Tailoring diverges as an ultra-slim basque jacket or a boxy linen blazer worn over silk camisoles paired with cigarette trousers or a sleek bloomer. Light as air, cocktail dresses are draped in pleated satin or embroidered lace, suspended on ribbons or floating with gazar wings. Moments of opulence arrive in a scrolling jacquard, glass teardrop jewels and embroidered veil netting, as a lacquered platform heel elevates the silhouette to monumental heights.
For Spring Summer 2020, a partnership with Los Angeles-based French eyewear label Jacques Marie Mage results in the first Olivier Theyskens sunglasses collection. Featuring bold and linear acetate frames in high-gloss and frosted finishes, each intemporal style is emblazoned with the OT monogram device.
Photocredit: VOGUE RUNWAY