FYODOR GOLAN – PANTASTIC | SPRING SUMMER 2020

Upcycled Remix. Repurposed elements, breathe new life to existing ingredients in a move towards a zero-waste path of creation. The 1994 film Farrinelli Castrato by Gérard Corbiau and the 1984 film Amadeus by Milos Forman served as initial inspirational backgrounds. FG: “Building this collection, we wanted to create hybrid identities for each look and reference historical and contemporary figures such as 18th century rock star Farrinelli, the campy confections of Marie Antionette, prolific composer W. A. Mozart, the burning alchemy of Mina and the romantic violent sensibilities of Grimes.”

Remixing and collaging the various music scenes from rave to rock and heavy metal to classical compositions, animates a dreamlike psychedelic tribe. Collaborating with GOOD LUCK TROLLS the iconic figure created in 1959 by Danish woodcarver Thomas Dam brought a fantasy approach and touches of nostalgia to the collection. FG: “Trolls representation of bold positive individuality is just what we need right now.“

Attack On The Senses. An aggressive, almost violent, approach draws attention to the clothes, their make and construction, emphasising extremities and contradictions. Lace is used clashingly with repurposed heavy metal tshirts. Negligee slip dresses are turned into pleated evening gowns with chewed out parts replaced with delicate lace panelling. Pleats are a major draw and accentuate the craft of their creation. An intensive and delicate process challenged by the contrasting mix of fabrications, weights and textures. Recycled and deconstructed denims are reassembled and reapplied onto lightweight base fabrications a more angular, and unisexual look. Newly reinterpreted denim looks are created by use of traditional denim techniques on delicate textiles such as silk satin and tulles, blurring the lines between the artificial, the fantasy and the reality.

We explored the idea of Pansexuality- the attraction towards a person regardless of their gender identity. This served as a battle against uniformity and underlined the expression of individuality of each model in the show. The Bedroom was an integral inspiration this season. Blankets and pillows are harnessed and turned into hybrid accessories justifying sexual tensions.

Oversized blankets quilted with troll silhouettes and printed with ink spills and pastel psychedelic cloud prints are draped over the body. Psychedelic pyjama sets and crystal studded loungewear underlines genderless sensuality. Tie-dye tights of neon and pure inky colours were custom made in collaboration with Celia Calderon Asensio to match and take forward each look in its energy.

Up-cycled shoes were created in collaboration with Kat Maconie. Reusing the construction of our SS15 collaboration we wanted to rethink and rebuild it into SS20. Repurposing offcuts and production waste into the random buckled, multi-coloured strap design of a hardcore sandal.

“We have collaborated with hair artist Johanna Cree-Brown of Trevor Sorbie to create individual custom wigs and hairstyles. Our long time friendship with Johanna was long overdue a creative collaboration and this highly referential and textural work was perfect for this season.” Pablo Rodriguez using Illamasqua makeup, customised random single lashes focusing on the model eyes keeping the individuality and fluidity of the show.

FG: “Every element of the season had to go through both our hands. This gave the collection a focus on craft with multiple connection points and an overload of references, we aimed to put across as empowering, individualistic and optimistic. Like a visual treasure for the mind.”

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